By Kevin Revolinski | Photography by Hillary Schave (Pictured: Pizza Brutta)
Madison has a spectacular pizza scene. Understandably, most Italian restaurants offer it on their menus. But nothing says fall and winter comfort food more than a pizzeria, focused singularly on dough-slinging, zesty sauces and the best toppings.
Consider the traditional Neapolitan pizza. Baked in about 90 seconds in a 800-plus degree oven — often wood-fired — the thin crust is chewy and folds nicely while showing a bit of char. They range from the simple Margherita (fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil) to prosciutto with fresh arugula. Italians are so fastidious about the Neapolitan pizza process — baking temperature, ingredients, crust thickness and diameter — that a “traditional” Pizza Napoletana has been codified into law.
Pizza Brutta offers this style and pizzas come with either a base of crushed tomatoes (Rosso/red) or simply olive oil and salt (Bianco/white). Novanta Pizzeria — named for “Ninety,” a nod to the baking time — has two locations and offers options with or without a tomato base. A north side neighborhood favorite, It’s Good For You takes your orders online and has modest indoor and outdoor seating. Watch for monthly specials and wine discounts. While Naples 15 is a full-blown Italian restaurant, it is notably one of only five Wisconsin restaurants that has received official certification from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana in Napoli for serving a truly traditional pie.
Taking its name from where you’re most likely to have it, the tavern-style pizza comes with a thin but crispy crust that is served cut in squares. The recently resurrected Greenbush Bar serves this quintessential pie. Their signature Alberici goes back 30 years, with toppings that include gorgonzola, Nueske’s bacon and arugula. Grampa’s Pizzeria offers pizzas with a thinner, cracker-style crust with great gourmet toppings such as Brussels sprouts, watercress and pork confit.
Lucille serves round, wood-fired pies but also “Wisconsin-style Detroit pizza,” a thick-crust variety in a rectangular steel pan with the sauce on top and the cheese flush to the side of the pan for a crispy edge. The new Molten Monkey Pizza on Johnson Street (from the co-founder of Ale Asylum) joins the Detroit-style pie club with single- size or large steel-pan pizzas — plus some Ale Asylum beers on tap.
New York-style pizza is familiar to many, sold by the slice and foldable. But New Jersey-style is a bit more specialized — it’s topped first with cheese and then a swirl of sauce. New Jersey native Patrick DePula opened Salvatore’s Tomato Pies in Madison, Monona and Sun Prairie to bring this tradition here while focusing on Wisconsin toppings and local grains for the crust. His pizzas are baked at 650 degrees in a brick deck oven with dough that has fermented for days.
Luigi’s Pizza combines a chewy Italian-style crust with generous toppings and the square-cut of the tavern. They also offer gluten-free and vegan crusts. With locations in Verona, Sun Prairie and New Glarus, Sugar River Pizza Company has a long list of specialty pizzas — including A Whole Lotta Muffuletta with creamy garlic, pepperoni, salami, mortadella with pistachios, and giardiniera — as well as build-your-own options. Zoe’s Pizzeria in Waunakee offers separate plant-based and gluten-free menus and crusts of varying thicknesses to customize your pie. Try their Mediterranean pizza with black olives, spinach and feta.
DINE-IN OR DELIVERY?
We’d be remiss not to mention a couple of classic, Madison-founded pizzerias, and while they do a huge delivery business, dine-in is also possible. Glass Nickel Pizza Co. has several crust options from thin to thick, and even a gluten-free crust. Creative options include Hawaii Pie-O and several chicken pizzas. Ian’s sells by the slice or the pie and is best known for its signature specialty pizzas, such as mac ‘n’ cheese and penne Alfredo.
UNDER-THE-RADAR PIES
Considering Nattspil has no sign or phone, it’s not surprising that their pizza might slip under the radar. They’ve been doing wood-fired pizzas for years, including brie and apple pizza with sage, caramelized shallots and roasted garlic purée.
Lola’s Hi/Lo Lounge is popular for its cocktails and lounge vibe, but also has five tavern-style pizzas on the menu.
Mint Mark features a couple of personal-sized pizzettas with wonderfully puffy, charred crusts.
